Drafting a Bodice Back

Today we’re going to draft a Bodice Back pattern to go with the Bodice Front that we made yesterday. If you already made the front bodice, then the back will be simple. They are made exactly the same, just in reverse. If your paper is large enough, you can even use a single A-B line to make the back and the front at the same time like this…

If you are not using the chart and are taking the measurements directly from your child, you will need some of the same measurements that you used for the front pattern. Only this time you measure your child’s back instead of their chest.

#4 – Center Length – Measure from the base of the neckline down the spine to the waist. 
#5 – Full Length – Measure from the side of the neck where it meets the shoulder straight down to the waist.
#6 – Shoulder Slope – Measure from the outside tip of the shoulder diagonal to the center back of the waistline.
#7 – Side Length – Measure from under the arm (where an armhole would begin, not up in the armpit) straight down to the waistline
#8 – Shoulder Length – Measure from where the neck meets the shoulder across to the tip of the shoulder
#9 – Across Shoulder – Measure from the tip of one shoulder across to the tip of the other.
#13 – Back Arc – Measure from under 1 armpit (armhole point from side length above) across the back to the same point under the other armpit.
(I have decided to take pictures of each measurement so it is easier to understand, but haven’t had an extra pair of hands around to help me out. In the mean time, if you have any questions, please send me a comment or e-mail and I’ll do my best to help!)
If you are not taking your own measurements, use this chart as your guide. 

Step 1: Draw a vertical line A-B = Full Length + 1/16″ (#5 on the chart)
Step 2: A-C = Across Shoulder (#9)
Step 3: Square a short line down from C
Step 4: B-D = Center Back length (#4)
Step 5: Square a short line in from D
Step 6: B-E = Back Arc (#13) + 1″
Step 7: Square a short line up from E
Step 8: B-F = Shoulder Slope (#6) + 1/8″ (The F point should be on the line coming down from point C.)
Step 9: F-G = Shoulder Length (#8) + 1/4″
Step 10: Square a line down from the FG line at point G
Step 11: B-H = 2 1/2″
Step 12: H-I = 5/8″
Step 13: H-J = 5/16″
Step 14: Square a line up from J equal to the Side Length (#7), minus 3/4″. Label this point K.
Step 15: Draw dart legs from K-H and K-I
Step 16: E-L = 3/4″ Mark L point
Step 17: L-M = 1/8
Step 18: Draw a slightly curved line from M-I
Step 19: M-N = Side Length (#7)
Step 20: Square a short line in from N
Step 20: F-O = 2″
Step 21: O-P = 1/2″
Step 22: With your french curve touching D and G draw the neckline curve. (3/8″ above to point where line D and line G meet)
Step 23: With your french curve touching F, P, and N, draw the armhole curve. (The curve may align with the short line just before touching point N.

Then once you have everything cut out and cleaned up, your pattern should look like this. Make sure you label the front and back so you don’t accidently confuse them later. You might also want to write the size on each pattern too just in case you make multiple sizes one day.
Go ahead and measure the side seams and shoulder seams from the back bodice with those of the front bodice. They should match up almost perfectly. Now all we need is to make a sleeve and you’re on your way to designing patterns for any outfit you’d like!
Thanks for Visiting!
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5 thoughts on “Drafting a Bodice Back

  1. Wow! Reading this is kind of overwhelming, but I'm thinking it's one of those things you just need to sit down and do & not analyze the process too much (does that make sense). It looks like you put a lot of work in this – I'm super impressed!

  2. Thank you so much for the front and back bodice tutorials!! Im just learning all these things, and your tutorials have just made things so much easyer for me 🙂

  3. you have the best blog TONI. I am in Nigeria and drafting patterns are so strange to people here. 90% of the people in Nigeria don't know what it is and don't get the value of it. so many people open blogs and do not explain to the audience. its like they holding back information. i love your openness and how u explain everything. keep it up love.you should go into teaching seriously. you are good. i hope u are fine now? i read about your stroke. I'm sorry about that. take care of you. love JUNE ADAMS


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