Sewing Binder Part 1: Lesson 4 Welt & Open Welt Seams

How do I sew a Welt Seam?

  1. Stitch a plain seam with the right sides of the fabric together.
  2. Press the Seam open.
  3. Trim one side of the seam allowance down to 1/4″.
  4. Finish the uncut side of the seam allowance with your chosen method.
  5. Fold both pieces of the seam allowance to one side so the cut seam allowance is sandwiched between the finished edge and the main fabric.
  6. Add a row of  topstitching 1/4″ away from the original seam, on the same side you folded the seam allowances.
  7. Press the seam flat.

When should I use a Welt Seam?

A Welt Seam is stronger than a Plain Seam, and is used for thicker fabrics.

  • This seam resembles a Flat Felled Seam but is less bulky.
  • It is especially good for fabrics that are prone to fraying.
  • Used for garments made of heavy fabrics wherever a strong flat seam is needed. (ex. Winter Coats)
  • For women’s tailored shirtwaist dresses, tailored blouses,
    and yokes of garments

How do I sew an Open Welt Seam?

  1. Stitch a baste seam with the right sides of the fabric together.
  2. Finish the seam allowance together using  your chosen method.
  3.  Press the joined seam allowances to one side.
  4. Add a row of  topstitching 1/4″ away from the original baste seam, on the same side you folded the seam allowances.
  5. Press the seam flat.
  6. Remove the row of baste stitches.

When should I use an Open Welt Seam?

An Open Welt Seam is a decorative seam used to add interest to a plain fabric. It can be used to accent various seams or style lines.

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