Sewing Binder Part 1: Lesson 6 French Seam & Mock French Seam

How do I sew a French Seam?

  1. Pin 2 pieces of fabric with the wrong sides together (WST)
  2. Stitch a Plain Seam using a very small seam allowance. (ex. 1/4″)
  3. Press the seam and trim the seam allowance down to 1/8″.
  4. Press the seam open.
  5. Fold the fabric in the opposite direction so the right sides are touching and press again.
  6. With the seam allowance encased inside, Stitch another row a small distance from the folded edge. (ex. 3/8)
  7. Press the seam open.

This example assumes the project is using a 5/8″ seam allowance, but these measurements can easily be adapted. Just be sure the two numbers add up to your desired seam allowance.

You can also complete the seam in a way that makes trimming unnecessary, but removing this excess bulk is generally recommended when working with very delicate fabrics.

When should I use a French Seam?

A seam within a seam: It’s most commonly used for delicate fabrics, lingerie and silks.

  • Perfect when the seam finish will show through garments made of sheer fabrics such as chiffon, organza, georgette, organdy.
  • Use when you want a seam is to appear as a plain seam on the front of the garment and also desire a clean finish on the inside.
  • Works best on straight seams, though setting a sleeve with a french seam is possible.
  • Helps to prevent very “shreddy” fabrics from fraying.

How do I sew a Mock French Seam?

  1. Stitch a Plain Seam using the necessary seam allowance. (RST)
  2. Press the seam open.
  3. Fold each side of the seam allowance so the cut edges meet in the center and press.
  4. Press the seam allowance closed so the raw edges are hidden inside.
  5. Edge Stitch  both layers of the seam allowance together along the folded edge.
  6. Press the seam flat.

When should I use a Mock French Seam?

Use the Mock French Seam when you want the clean finished look of the French Seam but can’t be bothered to worry about the math involved in figuring out the proper seam allowances. We’ve all been there! 😉

2 thoughts on “Sewing Binder Part 1: Lesson 6 French Seam & Mock French Seam

  1. Wow, this is great info!!! I love seeing French seams whenever possible, but often don’t talk about them. Love this post for reference to be able to point people to!

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