Sewing Binder Part 1: Lesson 5 Flat Felled & Mock Felled Seams

How do I sew a Flat Felled Seam?

  1. Stitch a plain seam with the right sides of the fabric together.
  2. Press the Seam flat.
  3. Trim one side of the seam allowance down to 1/4″.
  4. Fold the uncut side of the seam allowance over the cut one until it touches the line of stitches, and press it flat.
  5. Fold the seam allowance over again so all raw edges are concealed, and press again.
  6. Add a row of  topstitching along the folded edge of the seam allowance.
  7. Press the seam flat.

When should I use a Flat Felled Seam?

A Flat Felled Seam is the strongest flat seam that also prevents fraying. it is very similar to the French Seam, but without the extra calculations required to figure the proper seam allowance.

  • Flat felled seams are most commonly used to sew jeans and parachutes. (They’re strong!)
  • Great for garments that are made to take hard wear such as pajamas, play clothes, work clothes, sport clothes, and outerwear.
  • Provides a perfect clean look for reversible pieces or unlined garments.
  • There are special Felling Feet available for some sewing machines to help stitch Flat Felled seams. (An edge foot could also be used to create perfectly straight stitches.)

How do I sew a Mock Felled Seam?

  1. Stitch a plain seam with the right sides of the fabric together.
  2. Finish both seam allowances together with your chosen  method.
  3. Press the Seam open with the seam allowance to one side.
  4. Add one row of  topstitching along the folded edge of the seam allowance.
  5. Add a second row of topstitching 1/4″ from the first.
  6. Press the seam flat.

When should I use a Mock Felled Seam?

The double row of stitches makes the Mock Felled very durable, but unlike the Flat Felled it is not reversible. Use it as a sturdy decorative option in place of any regular Plain Seam.

Happy Friday!

 

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